Welcome to
Breakfast with Bees

Spring: ​

• Focus on natural splits to manage swarming. ​
• Provide minimal sugar feeding only if necessary. ​
• Monitor colony buildup and ensure adequate space for growth. ​

Summer: ​

• Support forage availability and avoid over-inspecting hives. ​
• Allow natural brood breaks to control pests like varroa mites. ​
• Ensure colonies have sufficient ventilation and shade.

Fall: ​

• Prepare hives for winter by insulating and reducing entrances. ​
• Minimize feeding but ensure colonies have enough stored honey. ​
• Address moisture control to prevent condensation in hives. ​

Winter: ​

• Allow natural clustering of bees for warmth.
• Use moisture quilts or other methods to manage humidity. ​
• Avoid disturbing the hive unless absolutely necessary. ​

General Tips:

• Use a seasonal calendar or checklist to stay organized. ​
• Observe and record hive conditions regularly to adapt your management practices. ​
• Focus on sustainable practices like planting forage and reducing chemical interventions. ​

These steps help ensure healthy colonies year-round while aligning with sustainable beekeeping principles. ​

1. My hive has swarm cells – what should I do?

• Inspect carefully: Are the cells capped or open? Capped = imminent or already swarmed.
• Split the hive: Use swarm cells to make a new colony and reduce overcrowding.
• Cut out extra swarm cells: If you want to keep the original queen and prevent multiple virgin queens.

2. Has my hive already swarmed?

• Check for a queen: Look for eggs—if none and there are swarm cells, it likely already swarmed.
• Watch bee behavior: A calmer, smaller colony and no eggs is a big clue.
• Check brood pattern: A sudden drop in open brood, capped queen cells, and reduced bee density suggest post-swarm.

3. Can I stop a swarm once I see swarm cells?

• Maybe—but act fast: Do a preemptive split to simulate a swarm and break up the swarm impulse.
• Cut swarm cells + create space: Add empty comb or supers to reduce congestion.
• Requeen: Replacing with a young queen may reset the colony’s swarming instinct.

4. What’s the difference between swarm and supersedure cells?

• Swarm cells are usually along the bottom or edges of frames, often many at once.
• Supersedure cells are often 1–3 in the center of the brood area.
• Timing + behavior: Swarm cells appear during population peak; supersedure often during queen decline.

5. Can I use the swarm cells to make a new colony?

• Yes—make a split: Place frames with swarm cells, bees, and brood in a new hive body.
• Keep the cell warm: Make sure the cell is not chilled during transfer.
• Mark or cage the queen if using the original hive to avoid confusing queens during emergence.

6. How do I prevent future swarms?

• Regular inspections: Every 7–10 days during swarm season to monitor queen cell development.
• Provide more space: Add supers or remove full frames to relieve congestion.
• Rotate frames or perform checkerboarding to break up brood nest continuity.

7. Should I remove all the swarm cells?

• Only if keeping the original queen—but be careful not to remove all and leave the hive queenless.
• Leave 1–2 good cells if you’re letting the hive requeen naturally.
• Mark frame locations so you can re-check for emergency cells on the next visit.

8. What happens if multiple swarm cells hatch?

• They may fight: The strongest virgin queen usually kills the others.
• Secondary swarms (casts) can leave with virgin queens if too many hatch at once.

1. How much honey should I leave for the bees to survive winter?

• Leave at least 60–90 lbs of honey for a full-size colony in Northern climates.
• A medium frame holds about 3.5 lbs; a deep frame holds about 6–8 lbs. – do the math per box.
• Weigh the hive or use a hive scale to estimate food reserves without opening the hive in late fall.

2. Do I need to insulate my hive for winter?

• Yes, especially in the North—use rigid foam board, wraps, or quilt boxes.
• Insulating the top and sides helps reduce heat loss and moisture condensation.
• Wind breaks (bales, fencing, or hedges) also help reduce winter stress.

3. Should I wrap my hive? What do I use?

• Use black tar paper, commercial hive wraps, or bee cozies to absorb sun and block wind.
• Wrapping should go up around the boxes but leave bottom ventilation open.
• Avoid wrapping too early—wait until after consistent frost but before deep cold (usually late October/early November).

4. What should I do about hive ventilation in winter?

• Provide an upper entrance or notch in the inner cover to vent moisture.
• Use a quilt box or moisture box with wood shavings or insulation to absorb condensation.
• Moisture, not cold, is the bigger killer of winter bees—dry hives = live bees.

5. Should I feed bees during the winter?

• If stores are low, provide dry sugar, fondant, or candy boards above the cluster.
• Don’t feed syrup in freezing weather—it adds moisture and can freeze.
• Emergency feeding (like sugar bricks) is best placed right above the cluster.

6. What do I do with the screened bottom board in winter?

• Most beekeepers close it off with a solid insert or tray for heat retention.
• Some leave it open with insulation and wind protection above to manage moisture.
• Watch condensation signs—adjust based on your hive’s microclimate.

7. How do I protect my hive from mice or critters?

• Install a mouse guard (1/2″ hardware cloth) over the entrance in fall.
• Tilt hive slightly forward to drain water and prevent rodents from nesting.
• Clear tall grass and debris around the hive to reduce cover for pests.

8. What do I do about combining weak colonies before winter?

• Combine two weak hives into one strong one using the newspaper method.
• Always combine a queenless hive with one that has a healthy queen.
• Don’t overwinter a weak colony—survival odds are low, and it may become a drain.

9. How do I make sure the cluster has access to food all winter?

• Place frames of honey directly above and beside the fall cluster location.
• Provide a top feeding method (like candy boards) in case they can’t break cluster in cold.
• Tilt hive slightly forward so bees can more easily move upward to honey.

10. When should I do my last hive inspection before winter?

• Mid-to-late October is usually the last chance in Northern states.
• Ensure queen is present, food stores are sufficient, and mites are treated.
• Avoid opening once temps are below 50°F—disturbing the cluster can chill brood and bees.

1. What is a queen excluder and what does it do?

• It’s a metal or plastic screen that allows the worker bees through but blocks the larger queen.
• Used to keep the queen from laying eggs in honey supers.
• Ensures clean, brood-free honey frames for harvesting.

2. When should I install the queen excluder?

• Just before adding honey supers during a nectar flow.
• When you’re certain the queen is in the brood box below.
• Some beekeepers wait until bees are moving up before installing it.

3. Can bees get stuck at the queen excluder and refuse to go up?

• Yes, especially with only foundation above.
• Drawn comb or bait frames help encourage movement through the excluder.
• Some bees may hesitate initially but adjust over time.

4. Does the queen excluder hurt honey production?

• If used improperly, it can slow nectar storage and reduce harvest.
• Bees may be reluctant to cross if there’s no reason to go up.
• Proper timing and drawn comb mitigate this effect.

5. Can the queen get through the excluder accidentally?

• Rarely, small queens can sometimes squeeze through.
• Old or damaged excluders might have warped spacing.
• Regular inspection helps prevent this issue.

6. Should I leave the queen excluder on all season?

• Only during active honey production.
• Remove it when supers are no longer in use or during dearths.
• Leaving it too long may block cluster movement in cold weather.

7. What type of queen excluder is best—metal or plastic?

• Metal excluders are more durable and preferred by many beekeepers.
• Plastic is lighter and cheaper but can warp or break over time.
• Choose based on budget, durability, and maintenance preference.

8. How do I ensure the queen stays below the excluder?

• Confirm she’s below when installing it—inspect frames for eggs.
• Use a double screen or separation box when uncertain.
• Marking the queen helps you track her location easily.

9. Do I need to use a queen excluder at all?

• Not necessarily—many beekeepers use brood management instead.
• Letting the queen move freely can boost hive productivity.
• Choosing not to use one requires extra vigilance during harvesting.

10. Can a queen excluder be used in swarm control?

• Yes, to trap the queen in the lower box to prevent absconding.
• Used temporarily in splits or swarm traps to limit queen movement.
• Helpful in catching swarms inside a trap-out box.

1. When should I add the first honey super?

• When bees have filled 8–10 frames in both brood boxes.
• When the nectar flow begins in your region.
• Add before bees run out of space to store nectar.

2. What’s the difference between foundation and drawn comb in supers?

• Drawn comb can be filled immediately and increases honey yield.
• Foundation requires bees to build wax first—slower process.
• Drawn comb is highly valuable for efficient honey production.

3. Can I use a queen excluder under the honey super?

• Yes, it prevents the queen from laying eggs in the super.
• Bees sometimes hesitate to cross it, especially with foundation-only supers.
• Try adding a bait frame of drawn comb above the excluder to encourage traffic.

4. How do I know it’s time to add another honey super?

• When the first super is 75–80% full of nectar or capped honey.
• Watch for nectar being deposited on multiple frames.
• Better to add early—don’t wait until bees are crowded.

5. Should I feed bees when I want them to draw comb in supers?

• No, feeding sugar syrup contaminates honey intended for harvest.
• Only feed if drawing comb before nectar flow starts, and mark honey as non-harvestable.
• Use feeding only during comb-building, not during surplus collection.

6. How do I encourage bees to draw comb in foundation supers?

• Add the super during a heavy nectar flow.
• Use drawn comb bait frames in the center.
• Ensure the hive is crowded enough to motivate expansion.

7. Can I add multiple honey supers at once?

• Yes, if drawn comb is used – bees will fill what they need.
• With foundation, add one at a time to keep bees focused.
• Some beekeepers alternate super positions to encourage use of upper boxes.

8. What’s the risk of waiting too long to super?

• Bees will backfill the brood nest, limiting queen space.
• Increased swarm pressure due to congestion.
• You’ll miss nectar flow peak—reduced harvest.

9. Where do I place the honey super—top or between boxes?

• Place above all brood boxes and above the queen excluder.
• Some beekeepers alternate drawn comb between frames in supers to stimulate use.
• Do not place a super between brood boxes unless making a management split.

10. What’s the benefit of reusing drawn comb each year?

• Saves energy—bees skip wax building and go straight to storing honey.
• Maximizes nectar flow harvest and colony efficiency.
• Keep drawn comb in good condition—freeze to kill pests, store with ventilation.

1. When should I add the second brood box to my hive?

• When 7–8 out of 10 frames in the first brood box are drawn and occupied.
• When bees are visibly crowded and covering most frames throughout the day.
• When there’s consistent nectar flow and brood is expanding fast.

2. Do I add the second brood box on top or bottom?

• Place it on top of the first brood box – this is standard practice.
• Some beekeepers ‘bottom super’ (add below) to encourage brood expansion, but it’s less common.
• Always keep brood together—don’t separate brood nest between boxes.

3. What should be in the second brood box—foundation or drawn comb?

• Drawn comb is ideal—it lets the colony expand quickly.
• Foundation is fine but ensure bees are strong enough to build it.
• If using foundation, checkerboard drawn and undrawn frames to encourage use.

4. Why won’t my bees move into the second brood box?

• The bottom box isn’t fully drawn out yet—they don’t need more space.
• There may be a dearth—bees won’t expand without resources.
• You can bait them up by placing a drawn brood frame or syrup in the top box.

5. What does adding the second brood box do to the colony?

• Provides more space for brood and food storage.
• Reduces risk of swarming by relieving congestion.
• Supports the growth of a large foraging population for honey flow.

6. Should I feed bees when adding a second brood box?

• Yes, if there’s no nectar flow, feed 1:1 syrup to help them draw comb.
• Stop feeding if bees are bringing in ample nectar naturally.
• Always feed inside the hive to avoid robbing.

7. How long will it take bees to draw out the second brood box?

• In strong nectar flow, bees can draw it out in 2–3 weeks.
• With syrup feeding and warm weather, expect 3–4 weeks.
• During a dearth, progress will stall or slow dramatically.

8. What’s the risk of adding the second brood box too early?

• Bees will struggle to heat and defend excess space.
• Slower comb building and possible pest issues (wax moth, SHB).
• Queen may not expand brood nest if too spread out.

9. What happens if I wait too long to add the second brood box?

• Congestion can trigger swarming behavior.
• Queen may run out of space to lay eggs.
• Bees may backfill brood area with nectar.

10. How should I arrange frames in the second brood box?

• Center the frames with foundation or drawn comb over brood below.
• Checkerboarding drawn and undrawn frames speeds expansion.
• Avoid placing only undrawn foundation in the middle—queen may ignore it.

1. What are the main treatments for varroa mites?

• Formic acid (e.g., Formic Pro), oxalic acid vapor or dribble, Apivar (amitraz), and thymol-based (Apiguard).
• Choose treatments based on temperature, brood presence, and mite load.
• Rotate treatments to avoid resistance.

2. When should I treat for varroa mites?

• In late summer before winter bees are raised.
• After honey harvest in fall is a common time.
• Based on test results—when thresholds are exceeded.

3. Can I treat with honey supers on the hive?

• Some treatments like formic acid are approved with supers on.
• Others, like Apivar or oxalic acid, require supers to be removed.
• Always check product label instructions.

4. Is it safe to use oxalic acid in a hive?

• Yes, if used correctly with approved methods.
• Oxalic acid is most effective when no brood is present.
• Use protective gear and avoid overuse.

5. Can I treat during winter?

• Yes, oxalic acid dribble or vapor works best when broodless.
• Winter treatments help start spring with low mite levels.
• Avoid treatments that require heat or active foraging.

6. What natural methods are available?

• Drone brood removal to interrupt mite reproduction.
• Sugar dusting to dislodge mites.
• Breeding or selecting for mite-resistant queens (e.g., VSH).

7. How do I know if a treatment is working?

• Retest mites 7–14 days after treatment.
• Observe bee behavior and colony strength.
• Sticky boards can help monitor fall after treatment.

8. Can I use the same treatment every year?

• No, rotating treatments reduces resistance risk.
• Follow integrated pest management (IPM) practices.
• Observe how your colony responds to different options.

9. What are signs my bees are suffering from mites?

• Deformed wings (DWV), spotty brood, and declining population.
• Presence of mites on adult bees or larvae.
• Excessive mite drop or poor overwintering survival.

10. How do I choose the right treatment?

• Base it on season, temperature, and brood presence.
• Consider the strength of the colony and nearby nectar flow.
• Consult local beekeepers or extension resources for guidance.

1. Why aren’t my bees using the second brood box or super?

• The lower box isn’t full yet (bees usually won’t move up until the bottom box is 80-90% full).
• There’s not enough nectar flow to warrant expansion.
• The queen excluder may be acting as a barrier, try removing it temporarily.

2. Why did my bees swarm even though they had space?

• They may have become crowded with bees; not just comb population pressure can trigger swarming.
• The queen might be older, and the colony wanted to replace her.
• Poor ventilation or not enough fresh comb may have contributed to swarm impulse.

3. Why is there no brood in my hive?

• The queen is missing, failing, or recently swarmed.
• Its a natural brood break (such as after swarming or during dearth).
• Disease or pesticide exposure may have suppressed brood rearing.

4. What should I feed my bees and when?

• In early spring: 1:1 sugar syrup to stimulate buildup.
• In late fall: 2:1 syrup to help them store winter reserves.
• Pollen patties may be given in early spring if natural pollen is scarce.

5. How do I know if my hive is queenright?

• Look for eggs or very young larvae (evidence a queen has been active in the last 3 days).
• Watch bee behavior – calm, organized activity usually indicates a queenright hive.
• Insert a test frame with eggs/young larvae and check for queen cells after a few days.

6. Why are my bees so aggressive lately?

• The colony might be queenless or requeening, causing agitation.
• Robbing behavior from other bees or wasps can make the colony defensive.
• Environmental stressors like heat, storms, or human/animal disturbance.

7. When should I harvest honey?

• When the frames are at least 80% capped.
• After the main nectar flow ends, usually mid-to-late summer.
• When the honey moisture content is below 18.6% (use a refractometer if unsure).

8. How do I prevent mites from killing my hive?

• Monitor mite levels monthly using sugar roll or alcohol wash.
• Use IPM strategies like drone brood removal and screen bottom boards.
• Apply approved treatments (formic acid, oxalic acid, thymol, etc.) at proper times and temperatures.

9. Why is there so much burr comb in my hive?

• Extra space between frames allowed bees to build wild comb.
• Frames may not be evenly spaced or straight.
• Foundationless frames or improper hive tilting can promote excess comb.

10. Do I need to insulate my hive for winter?

• In cold climates, yes wraps or foam boards can help conserve heat.
• A top ventilation or moisture quilt box is often more important than insulation.
• Some beekeepers overwinter successfully without insulation by ensuring strong populations and adequate food stores.

1. How do I test for varroa mites in my hive?

• Use the alcohol wash method for an accurate count.
• Try the powdered sugar roll for a non-lethal test.
• Use sticky boards under screened bottom boards as a passive method.

2. When should I test for varroa mites?

• At least once per month during the active season.
• Before and after treatment to measure effectiveness.
• During spring buildup, mid-summer, and early fall.

3. What is the threshold level that requires treatment?

• Generally, 3% (3 mites per 100 bees) or higher needs treatment.
• Lower thresholds may be used in late summer/fall.
• Any spike in mite counts should prompt immediate action.

4. How do I collect bees for mite testing?

• From the brood nest to get nurse bees, which carry more mites.
• Use a bee sample of around 300 bees (~½ cup).
• Avoid collecting bees from honey supers or outer frames.

5. Do I need to test every hive?

• Ideally yes, as mite loads vary between colonies.
• Testing a few representative hives can work for large apiaries.
• Monitor both strong and weak colonies for comparison.

6. Is mite testing harmful to the bees?

• Alcohol wash kills the sample bees.
• Sugar roll is non-lethal and preferred by some beekeepers.
• Sticky boards are non-invasive and kill no bees.

7. Can I test during cold weather?

• Mite testing is best in temperatures above 60°F.
• Cold can clump bees, affecting sample accuracy.
• Test in warm, dry conditions for best results.

8. Should I test after treating?

• Yes, always test again to verify treatment effectiveness.
• It helps guide follow-up decisions and track resistance.
• Essential to confirm mite load is under control.

9. Can I rely on visual inspections instead of testing?

• No, visible mites usually indicate a serious infestation.
• Testing is the only way to quantify mite loads.
• Visual cues should trigger testing, not replace it.

10. How do I track mite test results over time?

• Use a hive inspection log or spreadsheet.
• Graph results to see trends and treatment effectiveness.
• Also there are Apps that can help with data logging.