General Beekeeping

Spring: ​

• Focus on natural splits to manage swarming. ​
• Provide minimal sugar feeding only if necessary. ​
• Monitor colony buildup and ensure adequate space for growth. ​

Summer: ​

• Support forage availability and avoid over-inspecting hives. ​
• Allow natural brood breaks to control pests like varroa mites. ​
• Ensure colonies have sufficient ventilation and shade.

Fall: ​

• Prepare hives for winter by insulating and reducing entrances. ​
• Minimize feeding but ensure colonies have enough stored honey. ​
• Address moisture control to prevent condensation in hives. ​

Winter: ​

• Allow natural clustering of bees for warmth.
• Use moisture quilts or other methods to manage humidity. ​
• Avoid disturbing the hive unless absolutely necessary. ​

General Tips:

• Use a seasonal calendar or checklist to stay organized. ​
• Observe and record hive conditions regularly to adapt your management practices. ​
• Focus on sustainable practices like planting forage and reducing chemical interventions. ​

These steps help ensure healthy colonies year-round while aligning with sustainable beekeeping principles. ​

1. What is a queen excluder and what does it do?

• It’s a metal or plastic screen that allows the worker bees through but blocks the larger queen.
• Used to keep the queen from laying eggs in honey supers.
• Ensures clean, brood-free honey frames for harvesting.

2. When should I install the queen excluder?

• Just before adding honey supers during a nectar flow.
• When you’re certain the queen is in the brood box below.
• Some beekeepers wait until bees are moving up before installing it.

3. Can bees get stuck at the queen excluder and refuse to go up?

• Yes, especially with only foundation above.
• Drawn comb or bait frames help encourage movement through the excluder.
• Some bees may hesitate initially but adjust over time.

4. Does the queen excluder hurt honey production?

• If used improperly, it can slow nectar storage and reduce harvest.
• Bees may be reluctant to cross if there’s no reason to go up.
• Proper timing and drawn comb mitigate this effect.

5. Can the queen get through the excluder accidentally?

• Rarely, small queens can sometimes squeeze through.
• Old or damaged excluders might have warped spacing.
• Regular inspection helps prevent this issue.

6. Should I leave the queen excluder on all season?

• Only during active honey production.
• Remove it when supers are no longer in use or during dearths.
• Leaving it too long may block cluster movement in cold weather.

7. What type of queen excluder is best—metal or plastic?

• Metal excluders are more durable and preferred by many beekeepers.
• Plastic is lighter and cheaper but can warp or break over time.
• Choose based on budget, durability, and maintenance preference.

8. How do I ensure the queen stays below the excluder?

• Confirm she’s below when installing it—inspect frames for eggs.
• Use a double screen or separation box when uncertain.
• Marking the queen helps you track her location easily.

9. Do I need to use a queen excluder at all?

• Not necessarily—many beekeepers use brood management instead.
• Letting the queen move freely can boost hive productivity.
• Choosing not to use one requires extra vigilance during harvesting.

10. Can a queen excluder be used in swarm control?

• Yes, to trap the queen in the lower box to prevent absconding.
• Used temporarily in splits or swarm traps to limit queen movement.
• Helpful in catching swarms inside a trap-out box.

1. When should I add the first honey super?

• When bees have filled 8–10 frames in both brood boxes.
• When the nectar flow begins in your region.
• Add before bees run out of space to store nectar.

2. What’s the difference between foundation and drawn comb in supers?

• Drawn comb can be filled immediately and increases honey yield.
• Foundation requires bees to build wax first—slower process.
• Drawn comb is highly valuable for efficient honey production.

3. Can I use a queen excluder under the honey super?

• Yes, it prevents the queen from laying eggs in the super.
• Bees sometimes hesitate to cross it, especially with foundation-only supers.
• Try adding a bait frame of drawn comb above the excluder to encourage traffic.

4. How do I know it’s time to add another honey super?

• When the first super is 75–80% full of nectar or capped honey.
• Watch for nectar being deposited on multiple frames.
• Better to add early—don’t wait until bees are crowded.

5. Should I feed bees when I want them to draw comb in supers?

• No, feeding sugar syrup contaminates honey intended for harvest.
• Only feed if drawing comb before nectar flow starts, and mark honey as non-harvestable.
• Use feeding only during comb-building, not during surplus collection.

6. How do I encourage bees to draw comb in foundation supers?

• Add the super during a heavy nectar flow.
• Use drawn comb bait frames in the center.
• Ensure the hive is crowded enough to motivate expansion.

7. Can I add multiple honey supers at once?

• Yes, if drawn comb is used – bees will fill what they need.
• With foundation, add one at a time to keep bees focused.
• Some beekeepers alternate super positions to encourage use of upper boxes.

8. What’s the risk of waiting too long to super?

• Bees will backfill the brood nest, limiting queen space.
• Increased swarm pressure due to congestion.
• You’ll miss nectar flow peak—reduced harvest.

9. Where do I place the honey super—top or between boxes?

• Place above all brood boxes and above the queen excluder.
• Some beekeepers alternate drawn comb between frames in supers to stimulate use.
• Do not place a super between brood boxes unless making a management split.

10. What’s the benefit of reusing drawn comb each year?

• Saves energy—bees skip wax building and go straight to storing honey.
• Maximizes nectar flow harvest and colony efficiency.
• Keep drawn comb in good condition—freeze to kill pests, store with ventilation.

1. What are the main treatments for varroa mites?

• Formic acid (e.g., Formic Pro), oxalic acid vapor or dribble, Apivar (amitraz), and thymol-based (Apiguard).
• Choose treatments based on temperature, brood presence, and mite load.
• Rotate treatments to avoid resistance.

2. When should I treat for varroa mites?

• In late summer before winter bees are raised.
• After honey harvest in fall is a common time.
• Based on test results—when thresholds are exceeded.

3. Can I treat with honey supers on the hive?

• Some treatments like formic acid are approved with supers on.
• Others, like Apivar or oxalic acid, require supers to be removed.
• Always check product label instructions.

4. Is it safe to use oxalic acid in a hive?

• Yes, if used correctly with approved methods.
• Oxalic acid is most effective when no brood is present.
• Use protective gear and avoid overuse.

5. Can I treat during winter?

• Yes, oxalic acid dribble or vapor works best when broodless.
• Winter treatments help start spring with low mite levels.
• Avoid treatments that require heat or active foraging.

6. What natural methods are available?

• Drone brood removal to interrupt mite reproduction.
• Sugar dusting to dislodge mites.
• Breeding or selecting for mite-resistant queens (e.g., VSH).

7. How do I know if a treatment is working?

• Retest mites 7–14 days after treatment.
• Observe bee behavior and colony strength.
• Sticky boards can help monitor fall after treatment.

8. Can I use the same treatment every year?

• No, rotating treatments reduces resistance risk.
• Follow integrated pest management (IPM) practices.
• Observe how your colony responds to different options.

9. What are signs my bees are suffering from mites?

• Deformed wings (DWV), spotty brood, and declining population.
• Presence of mites on adult bees or larvae.
• Excessive mite drop or poor overwintering survival.

10. How do I choose the right treatment?

• Base it on season, temperature, and brood presence.
• Consider the strength of the colony and nearby nectar flow.
• Consult local beekeepers or extension resources for guidance.

1. Why aren’t my bees using the second brood box or super?

• The lower box isn’t full yet (bees usually won’t move up until the bottom box is 80-90% full).
• There’s not enough nectar flow to warrant expansion.
• The queen excluder may be acting as a barrier, try removing it temporarily.

2. Why did my bees swarm even though they had space?

• They may have become crowded with bees; not just comb population pressure can trigger swarming.
• The queen might be older, and the colony wanted to replace her.
• Poor ventilation or not enough fresh comb may have contributed to swarm impulse.

3. Why is there no brood in my hive?

• The queen is missing, failing, or recently swarmed.
• Its a natural brood break (such as after swarming or during dearth).
• Disease or pesticide exposure may have suppressed brood rearing.

4. What should I feed my bees and when?

• In early spring: 1:1 sugar syrup to stimulate buildup.
• In late fall: 2:1 syrup to help them store winter reserves.
• Pollen patties may be given in early spring if natural pollen is scarce.

5. How do I know if my hive is queenright?

• Look for eggs or very young larvae (evidence a queen has been active in the last 3 days).
• Watch bee behavior – calm, organized activity usually indicates a queenright hive.
• Insert a test frame with eggs/young larvae and check for queen cells after a few days.

6. Why are my bees so aggressive lately?

• The colony might be queenless or requeening, causing agitation.
• Robbing behavior from other bees or wasps can make the colony defensive.
• Environmental stressors like heat, storms, or human/animal disturbance.

7. When should I harvest honey?

• When the frames are at least 80% capped.
• After the main nectar flow ends, usually mid-to-late summer.
• When the honey moisture content is below 18.6% (use a refractometer if unsure).

8. How do I prevent mites from killing my hive?

• Monitor mite levels monthly using sugar roll or alcohol wash.
• Use IPM strategies like drone brood removal and screen bottom boards.
• Apply approved treatments (formic acid, oxalic acid, thymol, etc.) at proper times and temperatures.

9. Why is there so much burr comb in my hive?

• Extra space between frames allowed bees to build wild comb.
• Frames may not be evenly spaced or straight.
• Foundationless frames or improper hive tilting can promote excess comb.

10. Do I need to insulate my hive for winter?

• In cold climates, yes wraps or foam boards can help conserve heat.
• A top ventilation or moisture quilt box is often more important than insulation.
• Some beekeepers overwinter successfully without insulation by ensuring strong populations and adequate food stores.

1. How do I test for varroa mites in my hive?

• Use the alcohol wash method for an accurate count.
• Try the powdered sugar roll for a non-lethal test.
• Use sticky boards under screened bottom boards as a passive method.

2. When should I test for varroa mites?

• At least once per month during the active season.
• Before and after treatment to measure effectiveness.
• During spring buildup, mid-summer, and early fall.

3. What is the threshold level that requires treatment?

• Generally, 3% (3 mites per 100 bees) or higher needs treatment.
• Lower thresholds may be used in late summer/fall.
• Any spike in mite counts should prompt immediate action.

4. How do I collect bees for mite testing?

• From the brood nest to get nurse bees, which carry more mites.
• Use a bee sample of around 300 bees (~½ cup).
• Avoid collecting bees from honey supers or outer frames.

5. Do I need to test every hive?

• Ideally yes, as mite loads vary between colonies.
• Testing a few representative hives can work for large apiaries.
• Monitor both strong and weak colonies for comparison.

6. Is mite testing harmful to the bees?

• Alcohol wash kills the sample bees.
• Sugar roll is non-lethal and preferred by some beekeepers.
• Sticky boards are non-invasive and kill no bees.

7. Can I test during cold weather?

• Mite testing is best in temperatures above 60°F.
• Cold can clump bees, affecting sample accuracy.
• Test in warm, dry conditions for best results.

8. Should I test after treating?

• Yes, always test again to verify treatment effectiveness.
• It helps guide follow-up decisions and track resistance.
• Essential to confirm mite load is under control.

9. Can I rely on visual inspections instead of testing?

• No, visible mites usually indicate a serious infestation.
• Testing is the only way to quantify mite loads.
• Visual cues should trigger testing, not replace it.

10. How do I track mite test results over time?

• Use a hive inspection log or spreadsheet.
• Graph results to see trends and treatment effectiveness.
• Also there are Apps that can help with data logging.