Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) related to Beekeeping:
FallWinter
10 of the most asked questions about Winter Preparations for Beehives in Northern Climates
- How much honey should I leave for the bees to survive winter?
- Leave at least 60–90 lbs of honey for a full-size colony in Northern climates.
- A medium frame holds about 3.5 lbs; a deep frame holds about 6–8 lbs. – do the math per box.
- Weigh the hive or use a hive scale to estimate food reserves without opening the hive in late fall.
- Do I need to insulate my hive for winter?
- Yes, especially in the North—use rigid foam board, wraps, or quilt boxes.
- Insulating the top and sides helps reduce heat loss and moisture condensation.
- Wind breaks (bales, fencing, or hedges) also help reduce winter stress.
- Should I wrap my hive? What do I use?
- Use black tar paper, commercial hive wraps, or bee cozies to absorb sun and block wind.
- Wrapping should go up around the boxes but leave bottom ventilation open.
- Avoid wrapping too early—wait until after consistent frost but before deep cold (usually late October/early November).
- What should I do about hive ventilation in winter?
- Provide an upper entrance or notch in the inner cover to vent moisture.
- Use a quilt box or moisture box with wood shavings or insulation to absorb condensation.
- Moisture, not cold, is the bigger killer of winter bees—dry hives = live bees.
- Should I feed bees during the winter?
- If stores are low, provide dry sugar, fondant, or candy boards above the cluster.
- Don’t feed syrup in freezing weather—it adds moisture and can freeze.
- Emergency feeding (like sugar bricks) is best placed right above the cluster.
- What do I do with the screened bottom board in winter?
- Most beekeepers close it off with a solid insert or tray for heat retention.
- Some leave it open with insulation and wind protection above to manage moisture.
- Watch condensation signs—adjust based on your hive’s microclimate.
- How do I protect my hive from mice or critters?
- Install a mouse guard (1/2″ hardware cloth) over the entrance in fall.
- Tilt hive slightly forward to drain water and prevent rodents from nesting.
- Clear tall grass and debris around the hive to reduce cover for pests.
- What do I do about combining weak colonies before winter?
- Combine two weak hives into one strong one using the newspaper method.
- Always combine a queenless hive with one that has a healthy queen.
- Don’t overwinter a weak colony—survival odds are low, and it may become a drain.
- How do I make sure the cluster has access to food all winter?
- Place frames of honey directly above and beside the fall cluster location.
- Provide a top feeding method (like candy boards) in case they can’t break cluster in cold.
- Tilt hive slightly forward so bees can more easily move upward to honey.
- When should I do my last hive inspection before winter?
- Mid-to-late October is usually the last chance in Northern states.
- Ensure queen is present, food stores are sufficient, and mites are treated.
- Avoid opening once temps are below 50°F—disturbing the cluster can chill brood and bees.
10 Common Questions About Treating for Varroa Mites
- What are the main treatments for varroa mites?
- Formic acid (e.g., Formic Pro), oxalic acid vapor or dribble, Apivar (amitraz), and thymol-based (Apiguard).
- Choose treatments based on temperature, brood presence, and mite load.
- Rotate treatments to avoid resistance.
- When should I treat for varroa mites?
- In late summer before winter bees are raised.
- After honey harvest in fall is a common time.
- Based on test results—when thresholds are exceeded.
- Can I treat with honey supers on the hive?
- Some treatments like formic acid are approved with supers on.
- Others, like Apivar or oxalic acid, require supers to be removed.
- Always check product label instructions.
- Is it safe to use oxalic acid in a hive?
- Yes, if used correctly with approved methods.
- Oxalic acid is most effective when no brood is present.
- Use protective gear and avoid overuse.
- Can I treat during winter?
- Yes, oxalic acid dribble or vapor works best when broodless.
- Winter treatments help start spring with low mite levels.
- Avoid treatments that require heat or active foraging.
- What natural methods are available?
- Drone brood removal to interrupt mite reproduction.
- Sugar dusting to dislodge mites.
- Breeding or selecting for mite-resistant queens (e.g., VSH).
- How do I know if a treatment is working?
- Retest mites 7–14 days after treatment.
- Observe bee behavior and colony strength.
- Sticky boards can help monitor fall after treatment.
- Can I use the same treatment every year?
- No, rotating treatments reduces resistance risk.
- Follow integrated pest management (IPM) practices.
- Observe how your colony responds to different options.
- What are signs my bees are suffering from mites?
- Deformed wings (DWV), spotty brood, and declining population.
- Presence of mites on adult bees or larvae.
- Excessive mite drop or poor overwintering survival.
- How do I choose the right treatment?
- Base it on season, temperature, and brood presence.
- Consider the strength of the colony and nearby nectar flow.
- Consult local beekeepers or extension resources for guidance.
10 Common Questions About Testing for Varroa Mites
- How do I test for varroa mites in my hive?
- Use the alcohol wash method for an accurate count.
- Try the powdered sugar roll for a non-lethal test.
- Use sticky boards under screened bottom boards as a passive method.
- When should I test for varroa mites?
- At least once per month during the active season.
- Before and after treatment to measure effectiveness.
- During spring buildup, mid-summer, and early fall.
- What is the threshold level that requires treatment?
- Generally, 3% (3 mites per 100 bees) or higher needs treatment.
- Lower thresholds may be used in late summer/fall.
- Any spike in mite counts should prompt immediate action.
- How do I collect bees for mite testing?
- From the brood nest to get nurse bees, which carry more mites.
- Use a bee sample of around 300 bees (~½ cup).
- Avoid collecting bees from honey supers or outer frames.
- Do I need to test every hive?
- Ideally yes, as mite loads vary between colonies.
- Testing a few representative hives can work for large apiaries.
- Monitor both strong and weak colonies for comparison.
- Is mite testing harmful to the bees?
- Alcohol wash kills the sample bees.
- Sugar roll is non-lethal and preferred by some beekeepers.
- Sticky boards are non-invasive and kill no bees.
- Can I test during cold weather?
- Mite testing is best in temperatures above 60°F.
- Cold can clump bees, affecting sample accuracy.
- Test in warm, dry conditions for best results.
- Should I test after treating?
- Yes, always test again to verify treatment effectiveness.
- It helps guide follow-up decisions and track resistance.
- Essential to confirm mite load is under control.
- Can I rely on visual inspections instead of testing?
- No, visible mites usually indicate a serious infestation.
- Testing is the only way to quantify mite loads.
- Visual cues should trigger testing, not replace it.
- How do I track mite test results over time?
- Use a hive inspection log or spreadsheet.
- Graph results to see trends and treatment effectiveness.
- Also there are Apps that can help with data logging.
