Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) related to Beekeeping:
Spring
10 Questions Beekeepers ask when they discover Swarm Cells or realize their Hive has Swarmed
- My hive has swarm cells – what should I do?
- Inspect carefully: Are the cells capped or open? Capped = imminent or already swarmed.
- Split the hive: Use swarm cells to make a new colony and reduce overcrowding.
- Cut out extra swarm cells: If you want to keep the original queen and prevent multiple virgin queens.
- Has my hive already swarmed?
- Check for a queen: Look for eggs—if none and there are swarm cells, it likely already swarmed.
- Watch bee behavior: A calmer, smaller colony and no eggs is a big clue.
- Check brood pattern: A sudden drop in open brood, capped queen cells, and reduced bee density suggest post-swarm.
- Can I stop a swarm once I see swarm cells?
- Maybe—but act fast: Do a preemptive split to simulate a swarm and break up the swarm impulse.
- Cut swarm cells + create space: Add empty comb or supers to reduce congestion.
- Requeen: Replacing with a young queen may reset the colony’s swarming instinct.
- What’s the difference between swarm and supersedure cells?
- Swarm cells are usually along the bottom or edges of frames, often many at once.
- Supersedure cells are often 1–3 in the center of the brood area.
- Timing + behavior: Swarm cells appear during population peak; supersedure often during queen decline.
- Can I use the swarm cells to make a new colony?
- Yes—make a split: Place frames with swarm cells, bees, and brood in a new hive body.
- Keep the cell warm: Make sure the cell is not chilled during transfer.
- Mark or cage the queen if using the original hive to avoid confusing queens during emergence.
- How do I prevent future swarms?
- Regular inspections: Every 7–10 days during swarm season to monitor queen cell development.
- Provide more space: Add supers or remove full frames to relieve congestion.
- Rotate frames or perform checkerboarding to break up brood nest continuity.
- Should I remove all the swarm cells?
- Only if keeping the original queen—but be careful not to remove all and leave the hive queenless.
- Leave 1–2 good cells if you’re letting the hive requeen naturally.
- Mark frame locations so you can re-check for emergency cells on the next visit.
- What happens if multiple swarm cells hatch?
- They may fight: The strongest virgin queen usually kills the others.
- Secondary swarms (casts) can leave with virgin queens if too many hatch at once.
10 Common Questions About Queen Excluders
- What is a queen excluder and what does it do?
- It’s a metal or plastic screen that allows the worker bees through but blocks the larger queen.
- Used to keep the queen from laying eggs in honey supers.
- Ensures clean, brood-free honey frames for harvesting.
- When should I install the queen excluder?
- Just before adding honey supers during a nectar flow.
- When you’re certain the queen is in the brood box below.
- Some beekeepers wait until bees are moving up before installing it.
- Can bees get stuck at the queen excluder and refuse to go up?
- Yes, especially with only foundation above.
- Drawn comb or bait frames help encourage movement through the excluder.
- Some bees may hesitate initially but adjust over time.
- Does the queen excluder hurt honey production?
- If used improperly, it can slow nectar storage and reduce harvest.
- Bees may be reluctant to cross if there’s no reason to go up.
- Proper timing and drawn comb mitigate this effect.
- Can the queen get through the excluder accidentally?
- Rarely, small queens can sometimes squeeze through.
- Old or damaged excluders might have warped spacing.
- Regular inspection helps prevent this issue.
- Should I leave the queen excluder on all season?
- Only during active honey production.
- Remove it when supers are no longer in use or during dearths.
- Leaving it too long may block cluster movement in cold weather.
- What type of queen excluder is best—metal or plastic?
- Metal excluders are more durable and preferred by many beekeepers.
- Plastic is lighter and cheaper but can warp or break over time.
- Choose based on budget, durability, and maintenance preference.
- How do I ensure the queen stays below the excluder?
- Confirm she’s below when installing it—inspect frames for eggs.
- Use a double screen or separation box when uncertain.
- Marking the queen helps you track her location easily.
- Do I need to use a queen excluder at all?
- Not necessarily—many beekeepers use brood management instead.
- Letting the queen move freely can boost hive productivity.
- Choosing not to use one requires extra vigilance during harvesting.
- Can a queen excluder be used in swarm control?
- Yes, to trap the queen in the lower box to prevent absconding.
- Used temporarily in splits or swarm traps to limit queen movement.
- Helpful in catching swarms inside a trap-out box.
10 Common Questions About Adding Honey Supers
- When should I add the first honey super?
- When bees have filled 8–10 frames in both brood boxes.
- When the nectar flow begins in your region.
- Add before bees run out of space to store nectar.
- What’s the difference between foundation and drawn comb in supers?
- Drawn comb can be filled immediately and increases honey yield.
- Foundation requires bees to build wax first—slower process.
- Drawn comb is highly valuable for efficient honey production.
- Can I use a queen excluder under the honey super?
- Yes, it prevents the queen from laying eggs in the super.
- Bees sometimes hesitate to cross it, especially with foundation-only supers.
- Try adding a bait frame of drawn comb above the excluder to encourage traffic.
- How do I know it’s time to add another honey super?
- When the first super is 75–80% full of nectar or capped honey.
- Watch for nectar being deposited on multiple frames.
- Better to add early—don’t wait until bees are crowded.
- Should I feed bees when I want them to draw comb in supers?
- No, feeding sugar syrup contaminates honey intended for harvest.
- Only feed if drawing comb before nectar flow starts, and mark honey as non-harvestable.
- Use feeding only during comb-building, not during surplus collection.
- How do I encourage bees to draw comb in foundation supers?
- Add the super during a heavy nectar flow.
- Use drawn comb bait frames in the center.
- Ensure the hive is crowded enough to motivate expansion.
- Can I add multiple honey supers at once?
- Yes, if drawn comb is used – bees will fill what they need.
- With foundation, add one at a time to keep bees focused.
- Some beekeepers alternate super positions to encourage use of upper boxes.
- What’s the risk of waiting too long to super?
- Bees will backfill the brood nest, limiting queen space.
- Increased swarm pressure due to congestion.
- You’ll miss nectar flow peak—reduced harvest.
- Where do I place the honey super—top or between boxes?
- Place above all brood boxes and above the queen excluder.
- Some beekeepers alternate drawn comb between frames in supers to stimulate use.
- Do not place a super between brood boxes unless making a management split.
- What’s the benefit of reusing drawn comb each year?
- Saves energy—bees skip wax building and go straight to storing honey.
- Maximizes nectar flow harvest and colony efficiency.
- Keep drawn comb in good condition—freeze to kill pests, store with ventilation.
10 Common Questions About Adding a Second Brood Box In The Spring
- When should I add the second brood box to my hive?
- When 7–8 out of 10 frames in the first brood box are drawn and occupied.
- When bees are visibly crowded and covering most frames throughout the day.
- When there’s consistent nectar flow and brood is expanding fast.
- Do I add the second brood box on top or bottom?
- Place it on top of the first brood box – this is standard practice.
- Some beekeepers ‘bottom super’ (add below) to encourage brood expansion, but it’s less common.
- Always keep brood together—don’t separate brood nest between boxes.
- What should be in the second brood box—foundation or drawn comb?
- Drawn comb is ideal—it lets the colony expand quickly.
- Foundation is fine but ensure bees are strong enough to build it.
- If using foundation, checkerboard drawn and undrawn frames to encourage use.
- Why won’t my bees move into the second brood box?
- The bottom box isn’t fully drawn out yet—they don’t need more space.
- There may be a dearth—bees won’t expand without resources.
- You can bait them up by placing a drawn brood frame or syrup in the top box.
- What does adding the second brood box do to the colony?
- Provides more space for brood and food storage.
- Reduces risk of swarming by relieving congestion.
- Supports the growth of a large foraging population for honey flow.
- Should I feed bees when adding a second brood box?
- Yes, if there’s no nectar flow, feed 1:1 syrup to help them draw comb.
- Stop feeding if bees are bringing in ample nectar naturally.
- Always feed inside the hive to avoid robbing.
- How long will it take bees to draw out the second brood box?
- In strong nectar flow, bees can draw it out in 2–3 weeks.
- With syrup feeding and warm weather, expect 3–4 weeks.
- During a dearth, progress will stall or slow dramatically.
- What’s the risk of adding the second brood box too early?
- Bees will struggle to heat and defend excess space.
- Slower comb building and possible pest issues (wax moth, SHB).
- Queen may not expand brood nest if too spread out.
- What happens if I wait too long to add the second brood box?
- Congestion can trigger swarming behavior.
- Queen may run out of space to lay eggs.
- Bees may backfill brood area with nectar.
- How should I arrange frames in the second brood box?
- Center the frames with foundation or drawn comb over brood below.
- Checkerboarding drawn and undrawn frames speeds expansion.
- Avoid placing only undrawn foundation in the middle—queen may ignore it.
10 Common Questions About Treating for Varroa Mites
- What are the main treatments for varroa mites?
- Formic acid (e.g., Formic Pro), oxalic acid vapor or dribble, Apivar (amitraz), and thymol-based (Apiguard).
- Choose treatments based on temperature, brood presence, and mite load.
- Rotate treatments to avoid resistance.
- When should I treat for varroa mites?
- In late summer before winter bees are raised.
- After honey harvest in fall is a common time.
- Based on test results—when thresholds are exceeded.
- Can I treat with honey supers on the hive?
- Some treatments like formic acid are approved with supers on.
- Others, like Apivar or oxalic acid, require supers to be removed.
- Always check product label instructions.
- Is it safe to use oxalic acid in a hive?
- Yes, if used correctly with approved methods.
- Oxalic acid is most effective when no brood is present.
- Use protective gear and avoid overuse.
- Can I treat during winter?
- Yes, oxalic acid dribble or vapor works best when broodless.
- Winter treatments help start spring with low mite levels.
- Avoid treatments that require heat or active foraging.
- What natural methods are available?
- Drone brood removal to interrupt mite reproduction.
- Sugar dusting to dislodge mites.
- Breeding or selecting for mite-resistant queens (e.g., VSH).
- How do I know if a treatment is working?
- Retest mites 7–14 days after treatment.
- Observe bee behavior and colony strength.
- Sticky boards can help monitor fall after treatment.
- Can I use the same treatment every year?
- No, rotating treatments reduces resistance risk.
- Follow integrated pest management (IPM) practices.
- Observe how your colony responds to different options.
- What are signs my bees are suffering from mites?
- Deformed wings (DWV), spotty brood, and declining population.
- Presence of mites on adult bees or larvae.
- Excessive mite drop or poor overwintering survival.
- How do I choose the right treatment?
- Base it on season, temperature, and brood presence.
- Consider the strength of the colony and nearby nectar flow.
- Consult local beekeepers or extension resources for guidance.
Top 10 Beekeeping Questions for Beginners
- Why aren’t my bees using the second brood box or super?
- The lower box isn’t full yet (bees usually won’t move up until the bottom box is 80-90% full).
- There’s not enough nectar flow to warrant expansion.
- The queen excluder may be acting as a barrier, try removing it temporarily.
- Why did my bees swarm even though they had space?
- They may have become crowded with bees; not just comb population pressure can trigger swarming.
- The queen might be older, and the colony wanted to replace her.
- Poor ventilation or not enough fresh comb may have contributed to swarm impulse.
- Why is there no brood in my hive?
- The queen is missing, failing, or recently swarmed.
- Its a natural brood break (such as after swarming or during dearth).
- Disease or pesticide exposure may have suppressed brood rearing.
- What should I feed my bees and when?
- In early spring: 1:1 sugar syrup to stimulate buildup.
- In late fall: 2:1 syrup to help them store winter reserves.
- Pollen patties may be given in early spring if natural pollen is scarce.
- How do I know if my hive is queenright?
- Look for eggs or very young larvae (evidence a queen has been active in the last 3 days).
- Watch bee behavior – calm, organized activity usually indicates a queenright hive.
- Insert a test frame with eggs/young larvae and check for queen cells after a few days.
- Why are my bees so aggressive lately?
- The colony might be queenless or requeening, causing agitation.
- Robbing behavior from other bees or wasps can make the colony defensive.
- Environmental stressors like heat, storms, or human/animal disturbance.
- When should I harvest honey?
- When the frames are at least 80% capped.
- After the main nectar flow ends, usually mid-to-late summer.
- When the honey moisture content is below 18.6% (use a refractometer if unsure).
- How do I prevent mites from killing my hive?
- Monitor mite levels monthly using sugar roll or alcohol wash.
- Use IPM strategies like drone brood removal and screen bottom boards.
- Apply approved treatments (formic acid, oxalic acid, thymol, etc.) at proper times and temperatures.
- Why is there so much burr comb in my hive?
- Extra space between frames allowed bees to build wild comb.
- Frames may not be evenly spaced or straight.
- Foundationless frames or improper hive tilting can promote excess comb.
- Do I need to insulate my hive for winter?
- In cold climates, yes wraps or foam boards can help conserve heat.
- A top ventilation or moisture quilt box is often more important than insulation.
- Some beekeepers overwinter successfully without insulation by ensuring strong populations and adequate food stores.
10 Common Questions About Testing for Varroa Mites
- How do I test for varroa mites in my hive?
- Use the alcohol wash method for an accurate count.
- Try the powdered sugar roll for a non-lethal test.
- Use sticky boards under screened bottom boards as a passive method.
- When should I test for varroa mites?
- At least once per month during the active season.
- Before and after treatment to measure effectiveness.
- During spring buildup, mid-summer, and early fall.
- What is the threshold level that requires treatment?
- Generally, 3% (3 mites per 100 bees) or higher needs treatment.
- Lower thresholds may be used in late summer/fall.
- Any spike in mite counts should prompt immediate action.
- How do I collect bees for mite testing?
- From the brood nest to get nurse bees, which carry more mites.
- Use a bee sample of around 300 bees (~½ cup).
- Avoid collecting bees from honey supers or outer frames.
- Do I need to test every hive?
- Ideally yes, as mite loads vary between colonies.
- Testing a few representative hives can work for large apiaries.
- Monitor both strong and weak colonies for comparison.
- Is mite testing harmful to the bees?
- Alcohol wash kills the sample bees.
- Sugar roll is non-lethal and preferred by some beekeepers.
- Sticky boards are non-invasive and kill no bees.
- Can I test during cold weather?
- Mite testing is best in temperatures above 60°F.
- Cold can clump bees, affecting sample accuracy.
- Test in warm, dry conditions for best results.
- Should I test after treating?
- Yes, always test again to verify treatment effectiveness.
- It helps guide follow-up decisions and track resistance.
- Essential to confirm mite load is under control.
- Can I rely on visual inspections instead of testing?
- No, visible mites usually indicate a serious infestation.
- Testing is the only way to quantify mite loads.
- Visual cues should trigger testing, not replace it.
- How do I track mite test results over time?
- Use a hive inspection log or spreadsheet.
- Graph results to see trends and treatment effectiveness.
- Also there are Apps that can help with data logging.
